Bedrooms - Make-Overs and Fitted Furniture

We now offer complete bedroom makeovers including bespoke fitted furniture.

The work illustrated on this page took 2 people 6 weeks at 6 hours per day.

It's hard and dirty work !

And what a lot of wood - it took 17 pieces of 8' x 4' chipboard just to build the furniture shown.

Below we list some of the features that we can install for you and at the bottom there is a complete list of tasks to give you some idea of the work involved.
Pictured left, we rebuilt the Airing Cupboard on the left of the photo and extended it rightwards to fill the alcove to make one large storage area that utilises a lot of what was previously dead space.

Pictured right, we removed the old wardrobe and built in a replacement with sliding glass doors.

The ceiling fan/light was replaced with a row of 5 LED downlighters. They are fitted with the new MX53 bulbs which use 3W of power to produce 50W of light.

A cupboard was then built onto the chimney breast to house DVDs and smart black trunking was added to hide all the wires.

Pictured right we see the other side of the bedroom, before and after.

A timber frame was built around the bed and faced with chipboard. Bedside tables were added below and cupboards added above. 

A long shelf runs over the top of the bed creating a cosy little nest. And the shelf itself makes a lovely display area. The top of the shelf can removed to get to the wiring. Under the shelf there are little blue "starlights" poking through, and also two downlighters, again MX53 LEDs. 

Below you can see some of the added features ...

There is a 3.5mm audio jack installed by the bed into which you can plug a phone / MP3 player etc. A cable runs under the floor to the other side of the room to another 3.5mm audiojack by the speakers. The speakers are plugged in so that the music from the Player can be heard via the room's stereo.


These switches installed above the bed are as follows...

*  The two single switches either side are for the bedside lights installed in the shelf above.

*  The set of three switches pictured second right switch on the starlights or one of 2 configurations of the main lights... either 3 bluish downlighters which produce more a of a daylight effect - nice and clear. Or two yellowish downlighters producing a softer, lower level of light for the evenings. 

*  The switch second left is a master switch which switches everything off on the other side of the room... stereo, TV and DVD.




The room is carefully measured to allow for uneven walls and ceilings and a design created on a 3D computer design programme. 
From this design we can generate a cutting list that indicates how much wood we will need and what size drawers, doors and table tops we need to have made up.

                 3D Computer Design         3D Computer Design

clear the room, strip the ceiling and walls, remove floorboards in loft and install downlighters in ceiling, channel down the walls(remove plaster), install cable for lights, remove floorboards in the room and channel up the walls to install cable for sockets.  excavate brickwork to install backplates for sockets and switches

Make good the plasterwork and instate coving around ceiling edge.

Paper the ceiling and the walls. Paint ceiling and walls.

Lay soundproofing foam as underlay for laminate floor, then instate the laminate then undercoat and fix skirting boards. Skirting is removable at this point to allow for adjustments in fitted furniture.

Deconstruct Airing Cupboard to create new opening. Construct timber frame around the bed. Cover or "Face" or "line"  the timber frame with chipboard, fixing with glue not screws since the facing is visible.

Cut to requirements and construct carcasses using IKEA style fittings on visible surfaces and screws on non-visible surfaces.
Install timber wardrobe bases and place carcasses on them. Carcasses containing drawers are pre-fitted with drawer runners before they are constructed.
Cut and assemble drawer cases.


Line the visible outer surfaces of carcasses with white chipboard, as shown in the centre picture above.
The furniture interiors are "opera walnut" dark brown chipboard and the exterior is "bleached ash" creamy white chipboard.
So the external face of the carcass needs to be faced. 
Exposed chipboard edges are then covered with iron-on strip.
timber frame bases and plinth area above carcasses are lined with chipboard. 
Units are sealed internally with dark brown caulk (filler) and finished externally with cream caulk,
in both cases to mask narrow gaps between carcass sections or between carcass and wall.
drawers are inserted and Doors and drawer fronts fitted.

The picture above shows the Airing Cupboard at different stages.
In the first picture, the door and frame have been removed and easily removable shelves built in in front of the hot water tank.
In the second picture, 2 carcasses have been installed to fill the alcove to the right of the Airing Cupboard.
In the third picture,  the carcasses have had iron-on strip ironed on to the exposed chipboard edges.
The exposed areas above, below and between the units have been faced with chipboard panels.
The drawer cases have also been made up and placed in the drawer unit.
In the fourth picture, the doors and drawer fronts have been put on. They were machine-made by our supplier to our design specification.     

Finally window sill instated and caulked in and the front edge faced with beading (long thin strip of decorative wood with moulded cross section.
Curtain rail mounted.
Wall decoration is touched up.
Skirting boards screwed on, filed and painted with topcoat.

Re-introduce the bed, remount the TV on the Wall. Add artworks and precious things, fill the wardrobes with all your favourites ...

and step back and enjoy for decades !!